How To Guides | General Maintenance | Castrol™ New Zealand

HOW TO CHANGE YOUR ENGINE OIL

WHAT YOU MAY NEED TO CHANGE YOUR ENGINE OIL:
• Spanner • Cloths • Oil Filter • Filter Wrench • Oil Change Pan •  Safety Glasses • Chemical Resistant Gloves (ie Nitrile) •  Jack • Axle Stands
  • STEP 1 Ensure your vehicle is parked on level ground, with the handbrake applied. Run engine until warm or take the vehicle for a 5 to 10 minute drive. Jack up and support vehicle with axle stands.
  • STEP 2 Clean road dirt from around sump plug and place oil change pan underneath.
  • STEP 3 Remove sump plug with appropriate size spanner or socket. Allow oil to be completely drained into oil change pan. Caution: Oil will be hot
  • STEP 4 Clean sump plug and replace. Change oil filter.
  • STEP 5 Refill engine with recommended Castrol Engine Oil to maximum level on dipstick, being careful not to overfill. Re-check dipstick after engine has been running for approx. 1 minute and top-up if necessary.
Note: Disposal. The generation of waste should be avoided or minimised wherever possible. Empty containers or liners may retain some product residues. This material and its container must be disposed of in a safe way. Dispose of surplus and non-recyclable products via a licensed waste disposal contractor. Disposal of this product, solutions and any by-products should at all times comply with the requirements of environmental protection and waste disposal legislation and any regional local authority requirements. Avoid dispersal of spilt material and runoff and contact with soil, waterways, drains and sewers. 

OTHER ITEMS TO CHECK
• The sump plug may need to be replaced  if it is not providing an effective seal and causing leakage. Remember to get the replacement gasket/washer before draining the oil. 
• Be careful not to overfill as this may result in excessive oil consumption.
• When changing your engine oil, it is recommended that you also replace your oil filter at least every other oil change.
• For optimum engine protection and performance, ensure you select the most appropriate engine oil for your car. For example, thicker viscosity engine oils are recommended for older engines, whilst thinner viscosity engine oils are recommended for most late model engines. These lower viscosity oils help provide improved vehicle fuel economy.
HANDY HINTS
• Changing your engine oil at the regular recommended service intervals will keep the inside of your engine clean, remove deposits, and help deliver engine efficiency and performance.
• Using nitrile gloves and protective eyewear will provide protection against chemical exposure to skin and eyes.
• The service intervals contained in your log book are maximum recommended periods between changes. If the majority of your driving is stop-start, short distance travel, your engine oil should be changed more often, at least every six months or 10,000 kms, whichever is first.

• For additional information call the Castrol Technical Helpline on 0800 10 40 60

HOW TO TOP UP YOUR ENGINE OIL

WHAT YOU MAY NEED TO TOP UP YOUR ENGINE OIL:
• Clean Cloths • Funnel • Gloves • 1Litre of the correct Engine oil for your car
  • STEP 1 Park on a level surface and ensure handbrake is applied. Turn off the engine and wait for the oil at least a minute or two to allow the oil to drain back.
  • STEP 2 Remove the dipstick and wipe with a clean cloth
  • STEP 3 The difference between the maximum (MAX) and minimum (MIN) level is typically at least half a litre
  • STEP 4 If oil level is close to minimum level, top up to MAX level using Castrol oil. Do not fill beyond MAX. It is better to add a number of small additions to prevent overfilling.
  • STEP 5 Repeat step 2 after waiting for a few minutes to see if more oil is needed.
HANDY HINTS
Engine oil is the life blood of an engine - It is very important if your engine is running low on oil to top it up as soon as you can. Running low on engine oil can cause a lot more damage to your car than you might think. Having a low level of oil in your car can mean that the engine is being worn far quicker than it should be and can lead to you having to fork out on expensive repairs. In extreme cases it can ruin your engine completely.
To work out what oil you need:
•  Check you lube sticker - This is a sticker from your last oil change placed on your car’s front windscreen – this should tell you what oil and viscosity is currently in your engine.
•  If the Lube sticker indicates you currently aren’t using CASTROL oil, it’s ok to mix brands of engine oils, but it is important to ensure that the oil and viscosity is right.
•  Your vehicle handbook will tell you what oil viscosity to use in your car
•  Check the Castrol On-line lube guide found here

HOW TO CHECK YOUR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID

WHAT YOU MAY NEED TO CHECK YOUR AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION FLUID 
• Lint Free Cloths • Funnel • Correct Automatic Transmission Fluid for your car
  • STEP 1 Thoroughly warm up engine (at least 5-10 minutes driving), then park on level ground with hand brake applied.
  • STEP 2 Leave engine idling and transmission in ‘Neutral’. (Leaving transmission in ‘Park’ may give the wrong fluid level reading on the dipstick).
  • STEP 3 Remove transmission dipstick and wipe clean with lint-free cloth. Note: a number of vehicles do not have an ATF dipstick. Those vehicles need to be on a hoist to check the level. Only possible in a workshop.
  • STEP 4 Replace transmission dipstick. Remove again and check indicated fluid level. Note: Many vehicles’ transmission dipsticks have two marks: ‘Hot’ and ‘Cold’, use the ‘Hot’ level.
  • STEP 5 If the fluid level is under hot full, top up the fluid. Using a funnel, top-up through the dipstick hole with the recommended Castrol Automatic Transmission Fluid highlighted in Castrol’s Lubrication Guide. Repeat Step 4 until filled to the appropriate mark. Add a small amount of oil at a time and check after each addition. NEVER OVERFILL.
OTHER ITEMS TO CHECK
• Automatic transmissions are sensitive to dirt and contamination, ensure all tools, fluids and cloths you use when checking your car’s ATF are clean and lint-free. This will maximise the performance of the new ATF and the transmission.
HANDY HINTS
• The automatic transmission fluid (ATF) works with the clutch packs and bands of your automatic transmission to deliver power flow through the gear box and control the gear shifts, to ensure the optimum ‘shift feel’. 
• Castrol developed a range of ATF’s to meet the needs and specifications of various car manufacturers. Ensure you choose the most appropriate ATF for maximum protection and smooth ‘shift’ of your car’s transmission. 
• Maintaining the correct fluid is vital. Whenever your car begins making erratic gear changes, the first thing to check is the ATF level. 
• Most Castrol ATF 1 litre packs come with a plastic tube to make top-ups easier.
• For additional information call the Castrol Technical Helpline on 0800 10 40 60 or find more information on our Automatic Transmission Fluids.

HOW TO CHANGE YOUR ENGINE COOLANT

WHAT YOU MAY NEED TO CHANGE YOUR ENGINE COOLANT:
• Radiator Hose • Screwdriver • Hose Clip • Radiator Cap • Deionised or distilled water • Funnel  • Coolant 
  • STEP 1 Ensure your car is parked and on level ground with hand brake applied.
  • STEP 2 When the engine is cool to warm – not hot – remove radiator or cooling system cap to ensure there is no pressure in the cooling system.
  • STEP 3 Open the radiator drain plug or remove bottom hose.
  • STEP 4 Set heater control to ‘hot’.
  • STEP 5 Use a water pressure hose to flush out old coolant.
  • STEP 6 Replace drain plug/radiator hose.
  • STEP 7 Put recommended quantity of Castrol Radicool Concentrate into radiator. Top up with deionised, distilled or good quality rain water. Replace cap.
  • STEP 8 Run engine for five minutes. Check water level and top up if necessary.
Note: Any future top up should be with Castrol Radicool Concentrate premixed with water prior to pouring into your car’s radiator or overflow tank. 

Disposal. The generation of waste should be avoided or minimised wherever possible. Empty containers or liners may retain some product residues. This material and its container must be disposed of in a safe way. Dispose of surplus and non-recyclable products via a licensed waste disposal contractor. Disposal of this product, solutions and any by-products should at all times comply with the requirements of environmental protection and waste disposal legislation and any regional local authority requirements. Avoid dispersal of spilt material and runoff and contact with soil, waterways, drains and sewers. 

OTHER ITEMS TO CHECK
• Colour of coolant being drained from the radiator may provide signs as to the condition of the cooling system; i.e. ‘brown’ coolant may indicate internal corrosion of your engine or that your previous maintenance was inadequate. 
• Radiator hoses will need to be replaced after long service as they become hard and less flexible over time. If a hose feels hard or brittle when squeezed it should be replaced. Damage to the radiator hose may be causing water leakage and overheating. 
• Radiator hose fitting may not be providing an effective seal, leading to loss of coolant when hot and therefore causing overheating. 
HANDY HINTS
• Compete flushing and renewal of your engine coolant should occur at least every three years. Once per year engine coolant changes are desirable if concentration is not well maintained. Some newer cars have longer service intervals, please check your owner’s manual.
• Most car engines have a coolant system that uses a glycol-based coolant that is mixed with water. The glycol preparation helps extend the physical characteristics of the coolant, which minimises damage to aluminium cylinder heads and water pumps, and prevents corrosion of iron and aluminium engines. 
• If the glycol concentration (once mixed with water) is below 30% the engine coolant will offer little benefit in physical characteristics enhancement and anti-boil effect. 
• Castrol Radicool Concentrate contains approximately 95% ethylene glycol which allows you to premix to the required concentration. We recommend you fill your car’s radiator with the recommended quantity of engine coolant highlighted in Castrol’s Lubrication Guide and top up with water, to ensure optimal protection against engine corrosion and weather extremes. 
• Mixing different coolant formulations is not recommended, as this may cause precipitation of inhibitor components and could result in over heating and reduced corrosion protection.
• For additional information call the Castrol Technical Helpline on 0800 10 40 60. 

Note: If you are unsure about what to do or require additional information, please refer to your car’s handbook for further details on this aspect of your car’s maintenance or consult an expert.

HOW TO CHECK YOUR POWER STEERING FLUID

WHAT YOU MAY NEED TO CHECK YOUR POWER STEERING FLUID 
• Lint Free Cloths • Funnel  • Correct power steering Fluid for your car 
  • STEP 1 Thoroughly warm up engine (at least 5-10 minutes driving), then park on level ground with hand brake applied.
  • STEP 2 Turn off engine. If you are unsure where or which is the power steering reservoir check the vehicle handbook. Most modern vehicles have a translucent reservoir and may have the levels indicated on the outside of the reservoir container. Power steering dipsticks are usually attached or under the reservoir cap.
  • STEP 3 Remove power steering cap/dipstick and wipe clean with lint-free cloth. Note: a number of vehicles do not have a power steering dipstick. Those vehicles will have levels indicated on the outside of the translucent reservoir.
  • STEP 4 Replace power steering dipstick. Remove again and check indicated fluid level. Note: Many vehicles’ power steering dipsticks have two marks: ‘Hot’ and ‘Cold’, use the ‘Hot’ level.
  • STEP 5 If the fluid level is under hot full, top up the fluid with the recommended Castrol power steering Fluid highlighted in Castrol’s Lubrication Guide. Repeat Step 4 until filled to the appropriate mark. Add a small amount of oil at a time and check after each addition. NEVER OVERFILL.
HANDY HINTS
• Although most manufacturers use similar power steering fluids there are some special fluids in some vehicles. Check the Castrol Lube Guide to ensure you have the correct fluid. 
• Maintaining the correct fluid is vital. Whenever your car begins making unusual or wheezing noise when you turn the steering wheel, the first thing to check is the power steering fluid level. 
• For additional information call the Castrol Technical Helpline on 0800 10 40 60. 

Note: If you are unsure about what to do or require additional information, please refer to your car’s handbook for further details on this aspect of your car’s maintenance or consult an expert.

HOW TO CHECK YOUR BRAKE FLUID

WHAT YOU MAY NEED TO CHECK YOUR BRAKE FLUID:
• Clean Cloths • The correct Brake Fluid for your car, 1 x 500 mL is usually plenty
  • STEP 1 Ensure your car is parked and on level ground with hand brake applied.
  • STEP 2 The brake fluid reservoir is located under the bonnet. Most modern cars have a translucent plastic reservoir with ‘maximum’ and ‘minimum’ levels clearly indicated.
  • STEP 3 If the fluid level is below minimum when your car is parked on level ground, it will need to be topped up.
  • STEP 4 Carefully and thoroughly clean area around the reservoir with a cloth. Open the reservoir and add the recommended Castrol Brake Fluid. Do not overfill.
  • STEP 5 Replace reservoir cap. Carefully wash off any brake fluid spilt on the paintwork with water. Do not wipe off as it may damage paintwork.
  • STEP 6 If your car is a manual with a hydraulic clutch, check your clutch fluid level at the same time.
OTHER ITEMS TO CHECK
• Regular topping up indicates a leak in the system, which should be located and rectified by a qualified brake specialist. 
• Dirty fluid indicates you may have contaminated fluid, or that it has been in service too long. The complete brake system should be flushed and refilled with new brake fluid. 
• If your brake pedal feels soft or spongy, or travels more than 30mm before becoming firm, your brakes may need to be bled to remove air from the system or on older vehicles adjusted. This job is best left to a qualified brake specialist or service workshop. 
• Your brake fluid should be changed at least every 2 years or as per manufacturer’s specifications. For severe duty applications like heavy towing, every year is recommended. (Note: If the kms are low the fluid should still be replaced according to time, high kms are acceptable in the same time period). 
• If you are experiencing squeaky brakes, have the disc pads and / or brake shoe linings checked for excessive wear. Replace if required.
HANDY HINTS
• If you top up your brake fluid yourself it is vital that the area around the reservoir be clean and free of dust before it is opened. Avoid spilling fluid; it can damage your paintwork. Wash it off with water immediately, do not wipe off. 
• Most cars use polyglycol type brake fluids. However, a few vehicles still use special mineral oils. It is vital that the correct brake fluid is used. If in doubt consult a brake specialist. Never put anything but the recommended type of brake fluid in your brake system, otherwise brake failure may result. 
• For additional information call the Castrol Technical Helpline on 0800 10 40 60. 

Note: If you are unsure about what to do or require additional information, please refer to your car’s handbook for further details on this aspect of your car’s maintenance or consult an expert. 

HOW TO CHECK YOUR DIFFERENTIAL AND GEAR OIL

WHAT YOU MAY NEED TO TO CHECK YOUR DIFFERENTIAL AND GEAR OIL:
• Clean Wire • Clean Cloths • Funnel / Thin Plastic Hose • Drip Tray • The correct Differential & Gear Oil for your car
  • STEP 1 Ensure your car is parked on level ground with hand brake applied and wheels well chocked. Jack up and support vehicle with axle stands. (It is impossible to get under most vehicles without jacking it up.) In almost all situations the oil level is best checked when the differential or gearbox is cool.
  • STEP 2 Thoroughly clean around the filler point, usually located approximately halfway up the gear housing. Don’t confuse this with drain plug which is usually at the bottom of the gearbox or differential.
  • STEP 3 Remove filler plug. Oil should just reach the tip of the filler hole; check level by sight, or with a piece of wire. Wire should be put in as horizontal as possible to get an accurate reading of the oil level.
  • STEP 4 If necessary, top up with the recommended Castrol Gear Oil until the oil just flows out of the filler hole. Most Castrol Transmission and Gear Oil 1 litre packs come with a plastic tube to make topping up easier.
HANDY HINTS
• The improved responsiveness of modern engines places severe demands on manual transmission fluids. Castrol carefully formulates oils for good synchro performance, smooth shifting – even when cold – and long component life. However, this can only be achieved if you choose the most appropriate gear oil for your car.
• If you use a gear oil with the wrong viscosity for your car (too ‘thick’ or too ‘thin’), or if your gear oil is low, you may experience one or more of these problems: difficulty in changing gear, increased transmission noise, especially hot idle rattle.
• In a well-maintained car under normal operating circumstances, differential and gear oil will not need frequent checking. However, it is good practice to periodically check the gear and differential housings for any sign of leaks.
• If there is any sign of gasket or oil seal failure, or you experience excessive noise or harshness of operation from your transmission compartment, see your service specialist.
• For additional information call the Castrol Technical Helpline on 0800 10 40 60.

Note: If you are unsure about what to do or require additional information, please refer to your car’s handbook for further details on this aspect of your car’s maintenance or consult an expert.

HOW TO CHANGE YOUR WIPER BLADES

  • STEP 1 Ensure your vehicle is parked on level ground, with the handbrake applied.
  • STEP 2 Measure the old rubber blades using a ruler or measuring tape to find out what size replacement blades you need. Don't assume that the left and right wiper take the same size blade. One side is often an inch or two shorter than the other. Don’t forget to measure the rear windscreen wiper as well.
  • STEP 3 Raise the metal wiper arm away from the windshield and unhook the old wiper blade. There should be a small plastic stopper holding the blade in place where the rubber wiper blade meets the metal arm. Press the stopper and unhook the old wiper blade to separate it from the metal arm.
  • STEP 4 Insert the new wiper. Slide the refill wiper into the same end of the arm where you pulled the old wiper out. Gently pivot the new wiper until the hook snaps into place to secure it. Lay the wiper back against the windshield.
  • STEP 5 Repeat with the second wiper. The procedure is exactly the same for replacing the second wiper. Just make sure you use the correct size for each side.
OTHER ITEMS TO CHECK
• Check windscreen for chips
• Windscreen wash reservoir  level – add some clean rain water or demineralised water to the reservoir.
• Where tap water is hard it may leave small deposits as it dries.
HANDY HINTS
•  You may want to protect your windshield with a folded towel, just in case you the arm snaps back while you're trying to change the wiper
•  Wiper blades are made of rubber, so they naturally wear out after several months of wiping snow, rain and dust from your windshield. The fitting process is identical for the vast majority of cars on the road
•  Examine the wipers for cracks. Old windshield wipers become hard and cracked over time, especially in hot, dry climates. If your wiper seems to have lost its rubbery spring, it's probably time to replace it. 
•  Pay attention next time it rains. If your wipers leave streaks of water across your windshield that aren't much easier to see through than pounding rain, their rubber has probably lost its grip.

HOW TO CHANGE YOUR SPARK PLUGS

WHAT YOU MAY NEED TO CHANGE YOUR SPARK PLUGS
• New spark plugs • Metric / imperial socket set • Torque wrench • Feeler gauge • Spark plug socket  • Anti-seize compound or a moly grease is usually suitable • Clean cloths • Small Paint brush 
  • STEP 1 Ensure your vehicle is parked on level ground, with the handbrake applied.
  • STEP 2 Mark and remove high tension lead/coil assembly. Refer to your manual to locate the spark plug high tension (HT) lead/coils. Some vehicles do not have HT leads, instead they have an ignition coil per spark plug or per two spark plugs. Mark each lead using tape to show the order in which they are connected. Crossed leads will cause the engine to run rough so it is crucial you get this step right. Before removing any spark plug, remove the spark plug high tension lead by grasping the boot where it connects to the plug. Twist it and pull it firmly straight out.
  • STEP 3 Clean loose dirt away. If possible use a small paint brush or blow with air to clean away any dirt or dust around the base of the plug, to prevent it falling into the cylinder when the plug has been removed.
  • STEP 4 Select correct spark plug tool. The correct tool to use is a spark plug socket. This usually has a rubber insert to help hold the plug in place while it is being removed and replaced.
  • STEP 5 Remove the spark plug. Turn the spark plug counter clockwise to loosen it and then turn it by hand until removed. Remove the spark plug from the socket, and clean it, brushing away any light deposits with a wire brush. Inspect the plug, it should be relatively clean without excessive deposits. If there are heavy deposits that may indicate other engine problems, seek some expert advice.
  • STEP 6 Insert new plug, and check and adjust the gap. Check the plug specifications in handbook or service plaque, for the correct gap, and measure this with a feeler gauge of the correct size. If the gap between the electrodes is too wide or too narrow, adjust it by bending the electrode and slowly adjust the distance between the two electrodes until the correct gap is obtained.
  • STEP 7 Refit the spark plugs and torque to specifications. Apply anti-seize compound to the thread and replace the spark plug into the motor, carefully screwing it in by hand to avoid stripping the thread. When the plug is finger tight use a torque wrench to tighten the spark plug to correct specifications. Do not over tighten as this can damage the plug and the thread.
  • STEP 8 Replace the spark plug / lead coil assembly. Apply some silicon lubricant to the inside of the boot at the end of the coil leads and push it firmly into place over the exposed spark plug terminal. Re-attach the spark plug coil leads to the same plugs they were attached to originally, and then remove the tape.
  • STEP 9 Close the bonnet and start the engine to confirm the plugs and leads are functioning properly and the engine is not misfiring.
HANDY HINTS
•  Spark plugs can sometimes be difficult to remove, so you may need an extension to gain additional leverage.
•  Check the condition of the plug. If the insulator is cracked, the electrodes are burned or heavily corroded, or the thread is stripped, then the plug will need to be replaced. If the plug is dirty or oily this may indicate a problem elsewhere and you should get an expert to check it out.

HOW TO CHECK YOUR TYRE PRESSURE

WHAT YOU MAY NEED TO CHECK YOUR TYRE PRESSURE:
• Tyre Pressure Gauge • Replacement valve stem caps • ensure your tyre gauge is good quality as poor quality gauges are usually inaccurate.
  • STEP 1 Ensure your vehicle is parked on level ground, with the handbrake applied.
  • STEP 2 Make sure the tyres are cold. This means that the vehicle hasn't been driven for more than 2km. Checking air pressure in cold tyres ensures that the air hasn't expanded from heat, giving you a more accurate reading
  • STEP 3 Look in the owner’s manual or on the inside of the driver's side door for the standard cold tyre inflation pressure. This number is the lowest PSI one would inflate the tyres to and is suggested by the car's manufacturer. Note that the front and back tyres may need different pressures, according to the manufacturer
  • STEP 4 Unscrew the valve stem cap from the valve stem on the tire. The valve stem is a black pencil-sized extension near the hubcap, about 1" (2-3 cm) long.
  • STEP 5 Press the air pressure gauge evenly onto the valve stem and record the reading given. If there is a hissing sound, the gauge is not tight or even enough for an accurate reading. The angle of the gauge may need to be adjusted. If you are using a digital model gauge, you may or may not need to press a button in order for the gauge to read the air pressure. If you are using a traditional gauge, the metered stick should give you a reading automatically.
  • STEP 6 Note that if the reading is the same as the manuals' specifications, you are done after checking all other tyres for the same pressure. If inadequate pressure is in the tyres then more air should be put into the tyres. If that means driving to a service station, note the current pressure and how much extra is needed. The tyre pressures should be rechecked after reaching the service station, if the pressure is higher, then added the extra required to that new tyre pressure. Many service stations now use tyre pressure pumps that allow you to pre-set the required tyre pressure, then attach the pressure hose to the tyre valve. When the tyre has reached the correct pressure the system chimes and you remove the pressure hose. Make sure you put in the correct amount.
  • STEP 7 Replace valve stem cap. The cap does not hold air in, but it keeps dirt and moisture away from the valve mechanism in the valve stem, which does hold air in.
OTHER ITEMS TO CHECK
• Don’t forget the spare tyre – at least 2 – 4 PSI above the minimum. Air is easy to let out but impossible to put in on the side of the road.
Look for any obvious signs of tyre damage and wear.
HANDY HINTS
Read below for reasons inflation may be placed higher. 
• For most sedans, minivans, and even small utes, manufacturers generally recommend a PSI (pounds per square inch) in the range of 27 to 32, but can reach all the way up to 40. 
• Most manufactures recommend slightly higher tyre pressure for highway driving, typically 2 – 4 PSI higher than city driving
• For larger vehicles that need to carry a larger burden, such as trucks and SUVs, the PSI is generally 4 to 8 PSI greater than it would be in smaller cars, perhaps around 45.

HOW TO CHANGE YOUR ENGINE AIR FILTER

WHAT YOU MAY NEED TO CHANGE YOUR ENGINE AIR FILTER:
• Correct Filter for your car • Air Compressor/Vacuum cleaner • Clean Cloths • Screw Driver and/or Spanner
  • STEP 1 Secure the vehicle. Park the car on level ground, put the hand brake on and have wheels well chocked.
  • STEP 2 Open the bonnet. Release the bonnet with the lever inside the car. Move the exterior bonnet catch for final release. Lift the bonnet and secure it with the prop rod if applicable.
  • STEP 3 Locate the air filter unit ( check your owner’s manual). The air filter unit is usually situated on top of older engines or in a rectangular type box either side of the engine in most new vehicles.
  • STEP 4 Remove the air filter cover. Loosen the hose clamp that seals the air conduct. Undo all the screws holding the air filter cover. Some models have wing nuts, other air filters are just clamped on with a quick release system. Keep screws and other parts together and in a safe location so you can find them later. Pull the cover out of the air conduit and lift it up so it comes off the lower part of the housing. Consult a mechanic if you don't know how to lift the cover.
  • STEP 5 Take out the air filter. Now you can see a round or rectangular filter made of cotton, paper or gauze. Filters have a rubber rim that seals off the unit's interior. Simply lift the filter out of the housing.
  • STEP 6 Clean the air filter housing. Connect the air hose to the compressor and use the compressed air to blow out the dust, or use a vacuum cleaner to suck up any dirt. Seal the air conduit with removable adhesive tape. It only takes a minute and that way you won't get any dirt into the engine whilst cleaning.
  • STEP 7 Replace the filter. Replace the old filter with a new one. Simply insert it into the housing with the rubber rim facing up. Make sure the edges are sealed by the rubber rim.
  • STEP 8 Replace the cover. Carefully insert the cover back into the air conduit and then press the entire piece down onto the lower half of the air filter unit. Make sure it's on straight and securely, otherwise you could alter engine performance. Tighten all the screws or clamps and recheck that you have put everything firmly back together by rocking the unit gently with both hands. Shut the bonnet securely.
HANDY HINTS
•  Your car needs air just as much as it needs fuel; air filters keep the inside of the engine free of dust and insects. Replace or clean your air filter at the recommended interval to keep air flowing freely and your car running its best. Air filters are inexpensive and quick to replace, so you can do this routine maintenance yourself
•  On older cars with carburettors the filter is usually under a bulky, round cover made of plastic or metal.
•  Newer, fuel-injected cars tend to have a square or rectangular air filter housing can be found slightly off centre between the front grill and the engine.
•  Change the filter every 50,000 km, or about once a year. If you drive in a dusty area, it will need replacement more often. Your owner's manual or periodic maintenance guide should have recommendations for your car.
Note: If you are unsure about what to do or require additional information, please refer to your car’s handbook for further details on this aspect of your car’s maintenance or consult an expert. “Castrol NZ a division of BP NZ Limited and its related companies accept no liability resulting from any maintenance carried out in reliance upon this guide”.